Retz sits in the Weinviertel, ten minutes from the Czech border and twenty from Znojmo, with a painted renaissance square, a working Dutch-style windmill on the hill above, and — beneath the whole town — the largest historic wine cellar system in Austria, 21 kilometres of tunnels dug into the sand.
1. Hauptplatz
Retz old town · Map ↗
A large square of painted and sgraffito façades, arcades and a gothic church tower — bright, warm and completely unhurried.
2. The windmill
Hill above the town · Map ↗
A working Dutch-style windmill among vineyards, with the town below. The most distinctive silhouette in the region.
3. The underground cellars
Beneath Retz · Map ↗
Kilometres of sand-cut tunnels, cool and lamplit, open on guided tours — an unusual and memorable setting.
4. Kellergassen (cellar lanes)
Villages around · Map ↗
Rows of tiny press-houses along sunken lanes — a landscape unique to the Weinviertel and superb in low light.
5. The vineyard ridges
Toward the Czech border · Map ↗
Open rolling vineyards with wide skies, and Znojmo visible on a clear day.
Cross-border wine country
Znojmo, on the Czech side, is twenty minutes away and grows the same grapes on the same hills. A day that starts with Czech vineyards and ends in an Austrian cellar — or the reverse — is a very easy and very charming plan.
When to come
September and October for harvest and warm light on the vines; May and June for green rows and long evenings. The cellar lanes are photogenic year-round and offer shelter when the weather turns.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Retz from Vienna and Znojmo?
About an hour from Vienna by car or direct train, and only 20 minutes from Znojmo across the Czech border.
Can you take photos in the wine cellars?
The cellars are visited on guided tours; personal photography is generally fine, though it is dark and cool — around 10°C year-round — so bring a layer.
What is a Kellergasse?
A sunken lane lined with small wine press-houses, typical of the Weinviertel. They are quiet, atmospheric and photograph beautifully in the last hour of light.
Is the windmill accessible?
It stands on the hill above the town amid vineyards and is a short walk or drive up. The exterior and surroundings are freely accessible; interior visits are seasonal.